This autumn, I cycled 1,300 kilometers on a fixed-gear bicycle from Penzance, the southernmost tip of England, to the northern Scottish city of Inverness.
For the uninitiated, fixed gear bikes (or fixed gears) use a single chain ring and a single sprocket to provide a single gear. The sprocket does not have a ratchet system, so the pedal always turns with the wheel and there is no such thing as slipping or spinning. These are the bikes you’ll typically see at track cycling events, but they’re also great for commuting and long-distance riding – as long as you have the right gear – as they require little to no maintenance.
My plan was to try the legendary LEJOG (John O’Groats’ Land’s End), but the weather wasn’t great. Nonetheless, I climbed 9200 meters in 80 hours of (almost) non-stop riding, which provided ample learning opportunities.
Of course, you don’t have to make your life so difficult – you can choose a shorter distance and give yourself some gear. If you want to try a challenge this year, here are my suggestions…
I keep it simple with a binding, a frame bag and a backpack
(Image credit: Pete van der Woude)
You don’t need the latest and greatest carbon framed gravel bike for some adventure riding
If I can do it on a 1980s steel-framed track bike with a front brake drilled into an unsuspecting fork crown, you can do it on just about anything. The 25mm tires I used (the widest ones) were softer than usual to provide more cushioning (or at least that’s what I told myself). In 1300km of riding I’ve only experienced 3 punctures and one valve tear, which seems reasonable, doesn’t it?
As kids, we would hop on our BMX bikes and go for a ride—no padded shorts, no riding gloves, no clip-on shoes—just a bike. Fixed gears get you back to that riding experience: minimal technique and maximum fun. As the late internet cycling legend Sheldon Brown once wrote, “Most cyclists coast too much. Riding a fixed-gear bike will break this harmful habit.” Indeed. Until my knee hurt, but more on that later.
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You don’t need a bike-specific frame/saddle bag when traveling
I plan trips that involve mostly staying in hotels, B&Bs, and guesthouses rather than camping, so I find I can fit everything I need into a frame bag and backpack.
I made my own frame bag from a pair of old curtains and an Amazon box, and stowed the rest of my gear in my trusty 22L Osprey backpack. The harnesses I’ve used in the past were too wobbly and didn’t hold much capacity. Backpacks keep you warm and apparently have aerodynamic advantages, although the science on this may be shaky.
Lancashire’s rolling hills and dry stone walls represent the type of riding you can expect on the long journey to Inverness.
(Image credit: Pete van der Woude)
Garbage bags and plastic wrap can make anything waterproof
On the second day of the trip I had planned to set off where the sparrows fart to avoid the predicted rain, but the vertical river an hour’s drive from Holsworthy in Devon hit me and left me soaking wet. The clothes in my frame bag were safe in the bin, but my backpack lid leaked like a sieve. A wonderful housekeeper at the White Hart Pub dried my items and returned them in another bin that afternoon. The black bag kept the contents of my backpack dry for the rest of the trip. It’s lightweight, cheaper, and recyclable.
Turns out plastic wrap is just as magical. Despite the marketing copy for my top tube bag promising waterproofing, the interior was damp after the first day of rain – not ideal considering it’s where my phone/GPS is located. A few packs of plastic wrap provided by the host on the first night solved the problem. I bought my own roll the next day.
Your drivetrain picks up a bunch of muck from the road, so I wipe it off and lubricate it every day. Riding a binding means you don’t have to worry about too much lube messing up your shifters.
(Image credit: Pete van der Woude)
A nail brush is an amazing tool.
On the third day I bought one to clean my shoes that were constantly getting muddy. After that I used it every day to clean my tires, brakes, pedals, frame bags, fenders and everything else. It also keeps nails tidy.
You don’t have to plan your route in advance, trust your eyes better than your GPS
I initially followed Cycling BritainLEJOG route, but soon started planning my own route each night based on my legs and weather. Google Maps’ information about distance, elevation, and traffic makes route decisions easier, but sometimes it does try its best to keep you off the main roads.
This made me understand that sometimes it is better to trust your own eyes rather than GPS directions. This is especially true when the blue line is trying to take you into a plowed field, up a flight of stairs, or onto a single track where goats will look twice. I learned this after Google Maps took me into a farmer’s cornfield (the first puncture of the trip), which caused me to lift the bike over multiple farm gates in the pouring rain before Find the right path again.
The eponymous cast-iron bridge in Ironbridge, Shropshire, was my favorite destination on the trip, even if my stop there was largely by chance. The bridge was built in 1779 and spans the River Severn.
(Image credit: Pete van der Woude)
If you’re staying in paid accommodation, you don’t need to book weeks in advance
I managed to find decent, affordable accommodation every day, usually while lying in bed after a hot shower, which gave me much-needed route flexibility. The only near miss was when I was told on arrival that my room was no longer available due to maintenance, but within 10 minutes I found a replacement room in the next village on the travel website Booking.com.
take care of your ass
The best upgrade I made to my binding was changing the saddle, but only after measuring my sit bones. Sit on a piece of tinfoil on a carpeted staircase or similar, measure the distance between the impressions left by your sit bones, and buy your saddle accordingly. Believe me. Or, check out this guide to choosing a saddle that’s right for you.
The route north passes through many farms and you’re never more than a few minutes away from the next sheep or cow. These sweet beauties watched me as I climbed a hill towards Penrith.
(Image credit: Pete van der Woude)
Choose a gear ratio for long flights
although you don’t need If you want to try stationary touring, I wholeheartedly recommend it, if only for the simplicity of this style of riding. Just be careful with your gear choices.
I usually ride a 49-tooth chainring and an 18-tooth sprocket, which represents 73.5-inch gears. This is great for around town or 80km on my local terrain (the Kent Downs in southern England). But last year on a shorter (750km) ride riding the steeper and longer Devon and Cornish hills I quickly swapped the 42:16 setup (70.9 inch gears) for a 42:18 (63-inch gear), which is the simpler gear that proves better for climbing. For this trip, I decided to start with 42 minutes and 18 seconds, which allowed me to pedal comfortably at 12 mph and spin downhill at 24 mph.
Ride within your limits
Around 900km my right knee started to swell, probably from training too little and riding too aggressively. A strength and conditioning coach friend of mine recommends active rest. So I took a 20 mile “rest day” ride to Carlisle where I flipped the rear wheel to take advantage of the flywheel. A few days of coasting downhill gave my knees a rest and allowed me to finish the ride in a fixed gear setting.
The Greg Street Bridge in Inverness spans the River Ness. If enough people jump up and down about a third of the way, you’ll feel the famous Gregg Street Bridge sine wave, which is why it’s also called the Swinging Bridge.
(Image credit: Pete van der Woude)
wear a cycling hat
The humble cotton cycling cap can absorb 27 times its own weight, making it useful for both rain and sweat. It keeps the rising/setting sun away from my eyes. They’re easy to clean, dry quickly, and let everyone know you’re a serious cyclist, even while you’re riding.
You don’t need an occasion
Like drinking a fine bottle of wine, riding is an occasion. So don’t wait for the perfect time or weather. When my wife’s work contract expired a few weeks early, I realized our six-year-old would be in good hands, so I dug out my packing list and filled the void. She was a little surprised because it was 20:00 the night before I left, but only a fool wouldn’t open the door when the opportunity came.
